Tuesday 15 November 2016 7:09 pm

Working Lunch: Climb to the top of Harrods for a view from Chai Wu, its contemporary Chinese restaurant

Chai Wu
Harrods, Knightsbridge

WHAT?

A surprisingly intimate Chinese restaurant in Harrods, with a crowd-pleasing, wide-ranging menu.

WHERE?

On the fifth floor, next to the menswear department. And if the thought of eating quite literally next to a room full of suits in one of the world’s busiest department stores puts you off, give it ten minutes and you’ll forget the world outside entirely.

WHO?

Part of the Mango Tree group, which also has a Thai restaurant in Belgravia and a Pan Chai spot in Harrods Food Halls, head chef Tong Fatt Kok has cooked up a varied menu elevated by luxury accents.

Gold leaf-topped wagyu puffs

ORDER THIS…

Seek comfort in warming wagyu-filled puff pastry, topped – rather superfluously – with gold leaf or, better yet, the steamed dim sum platter, a selection of five delicate parcels. It’s definitely a lighter option than the sushi, which is hefty and rich and, in the case of the crispy prawn maki roll, highly addictive. There’s plenty of showmanship on offer, too, especially if you order the Beijing duck, which arrives glistening like a Christmas goose, only to be carved at the table and served with pillowy buns, pancakes, a pickled radish and cucumber salad and a dizzying array of dips.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE?

There’s a range of seating options to suit any need here. Casual catch-up over sushi? Pop yourself on a bar stool in front of the open kitchen. Intimate date? Cosy up either side of a candlelit side table behind a Chinese screen. Entertaining clients? Hold court at your own round table for six, uplit impressively by a chrome table lamp. The interiors are inspired by the five Chinese elements of earth, air, fire, water and metal.

Inside Chai Wu