Whisky Business: A New Zealand brand blazing a trail
Whisky Business: City PM’s monthly look at the world of whisky.
If you’re looking for exciting ‘new world’ whiskies, New Zealand is a good place to start. In many respects, the country’s whisky industry is still in its infancy, but it’s carving out a niche in the market by leaning into New Zealand’s strengths.
The country’s whisky sector began life in the early 1800s when Scottish settlers started distilling their own spirit. However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that New Zealand had its first commercially viable distillery, Willowbank.
‘Kiwi Terroir’
In the past two decades, producers such as Thomson Whisky, Pōkeno Distillery, Cardrona, and Scapegrace have emerged, each with their own take on a Kiwi-inspired brand.
Thompson set out by bottling old Willowbank stock and now distils with Manuka wood smoke. Pōkeno has become known for single malts and innovative cask explorations.
At the same time, Cardrona Distillery has gone upmarket and is working to carve a niche on the global stage with premium New Zealand whiskies. Scapegrace (founded in 2014) unveiled New Zealand’s largest distillery in late 2024, with a capacity of 160,000 cases of single malt annually, in its prime location on the 45th Parallel.
Producers are leaning into what’s become known as the ‘Kiwi Terroir,’ helped by a unique semi-tropical climate and pure water, which contributes to fast, distinctive ageing.
Pōkeno Distillery, the youngest of the four leading players, was founded in 2017 and already claims to be New Zealand’s largest single malt distillery.
Cardrona and Thomson Whisky (founded in 2015 and 2014, respectively) are smaller by comparison, but growing rapidly.
In September 2023, Cardrona Distillery was acquired by International Beverage, which also owns Old Pulteney, Speyburn and anCnoc, among others, and it has since doubled headcount while moving to 24/7 production.
Growth story
Cardrona distillery, based in the remote Cardrona Valley, was founded by Desiree Reid, who set out to build a New Zealand whisky brand that could stand tall on the global stage. The distillation process uses alpine water sourced from the heart of Mount Cardrona.
The wash is double-distilled in a pair of copper pot stills, hand-hammered and bespoke to the distillery – affectionately named Roaring Meg and Gentle Annie.
The whisky is aged in ex-Bourbon, ex-Sherry, and ex-Central Otago Pinot noir casks.
Head distiller Sarah Elsom says the “extreme temperature swings in the Valley have accelerated interaction between spirit and oak; allowing us to experience maturation characteristics earlier than casks sitting in more consistent climates.”
This interaction is what gives Cardrona single malt whisky its distinctive profile.
The environment in the Valley has taken some getting used to, but it’s vital for shaping the spirit. “Confidence to steer Cardrona’s spirit character is growing as we understand how the nuances of our process and unique environment present in the glass with time. Play will be careful, considered and likely lean towards a Winemaker’s palate,” says Elsom.
Award-winning
Cardrona’s main challenge is now “access,” notes Elsom. “We have a limited supply and great distances to travel.”
“Thankfully, New Zealand whisky producers are united in only presenting world-class spirits to the world so the brand ‘New Zealand Single Malt’ is in safe hands,” she adds.
When it comes to producing world-class spirits, Cardrona is blazing a trail.
Its single malt, The Falcon, won a double gold medal, with a score of 95 points, at the 2025 San Francisco World Spirits Competition- the only New Zealand whisky to achieve double gold.
Last year, The Falcon was awarded two gold medals in two categories at the World Whiskies Awards 2024. As the company celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, it’s looking forward to the release of its first 10-year-old single malt, slated for release in 2026.
A whisky lover’s Christmas
One way to spice up your Christmas cake this year is to use whisky rather than the traditional brandy or rum to soak the fruit. A smoky, peaty whisky, such as the Glen Moray Old Smoky 12 Year Old, can add a punch to a traditional recipe.
The perfect gift for art aficionados
If you’re looking for something with a bit more style this year, That Boutique-y Whisky Company is an award-winning independent bottler using a graphic novel-style, hand-drawn label by artist Emily Chappell for each label. The perfect gift that combines art and whisky.