The Cornwall haven that’s just for grown-ups
THE Scarlet. Where to begin? The 37-bedroom eco-hotel in Mawgan Porth, northern Cornwall, is a nexus of cutting-edge green technology and style; of character and sleekness. It’s cosy yet minimalist; an architectural statement yet completely at one with its environment.
Of all the above, the latter is the most impressive. The boundary between inside and outside feels seamless, and when you are outside, for example on the terrace overlooking the cliffs and sea, you feel like you’re part of a sculpture garden. The presence of a green, natural sweet water swimming pool complete with algae and plants, is part of this. The ergonomic shape of the chairs – like bent jelly beans – is another.
We were lucky with the weather and made our way through verdant southern valleys in scorching sunshine, finally pulling into the shady driveway of the Scarlet five hours after leaving London. After being shown to our room by an employee fond of the word “cool” (this is Cornwall, after all), we made immediately for water, starting with a dip in the indoor pool, a glassed-in sun-trap. Then, sunning ourselves dry in the early evening light on the terrace, we decided to try the natural pool. It was freezing. But beautiful: swimming in a natural pool with its own elegantly arranged plantlife and the odd bird perching, on a clifftop vantage point overlooking a yawning beach, flower-dotted valleys and the Atlantic Ocean stretching far away, is an intoxicating thing to do.
We sat peacefully and read for a bit on some sprawling loungers; other couples were sleeping, reading, sunbathing on the stone floor; others were taking in the lowering sun from some seaweed-infused, wood-burning hot tubs perched on the edge of the terrace (of which more later). It was a scene of rare tranquility, the hotel bringing guests into harmony with nature. Children aren’t allowed to stay at the Scarlet (families can stay next door at the Bedruthan Steps Hotel). Hence the blissful calm.
Our “unique” room was all nutty hues of beige and tan, with attractive tilework, colours and materials that continue the sense of nature. There are a few impracticalities (others might see them as bonuses): a deep bath in the centre of the room (don’t count on privacy, and you might splash the bed when you get out); a shower without a door or curtains, and no fridge or minibar. I had some medication I needed kept cold so had to put it in the reception’s fridge; meanwhile the blueberries we brought with us went off in the heat.
Some rooms have terraces that look over the sea. Ours didn’t, so instead, we had an extraordinary little look-out pod. Stairs in the room led up to a little closed-in chamber (also a sun-trap so too hot for us, but probably heaven in the winter), with a beanbag, a startling sea view, and nothing else.
Bathed and clean, we decided to eat at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen around the bend at Watergate Bay. It had great views, but rather disappointing food. So we were primed and ready to fall in love with the Scarlet’s culinary offerings, which began the next morning, with locally-sourced delights, including Cornish tea, local jam and home-made bread.
Between breakfast and dinner (and a good lunch at a café right on Watergate Bay Beach called the Beach Hut), we had a busy schedule of sunbathing, walking the flower-dotted hillop path that winds along the coast, more sunbathing, and a stroll round chef Rick Stein’s super-cute kingdom of Padstow, about 10 km from the Scarlet.
At five o’clock we took up the hotel spa’s offer of having a seaweed hot tub soak ourselves, and settled into the murky pool of hot water, enthralled by the sensuality of bathing outdoors on a cliff looking over the sea. Medicinal seaweed is kept in a netted bag, and the effect on the skin – after the pores have been opened by the hot water – is softening and therapeutic. We chose to sip blueberry cordial and natural cola (there’s no Coke here), brought to us by a lovely graphic designer-turned-butler, whose job is to stoke the hot tubs’ fire and bring guests drinks.
In a state of near trance-like relaxation, we headed down for dinner as the sun set, and enjoyed a selection of seasonal, sophisticated fare. Expect the daily changing menu to deliver some real treats; our fish – particularly the pan-fried John Dory with Cornish earlies – was perfect.
The Scarlet is the ultimate grown-up’s retreat and provides a full sensory experience the likes of which you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Double rooms from £270. www.scarlethotel.co.uk.
THE SCARLET | ECO CREDENTIALS
● Solar panels to heat the indoor swimming pool
● A biomass boiler, run on sustainable wood chips, to heat the hotel
● Natural ventilation system rather than air-conditioning units
● Plentiful insulation throughout the hotel, reducing heat loss
● Electricity supplied by Ecotricity ensuring it comes from a renewable energy source
● Staff are encouraged to car-share
● Grey water harvesting (waste water from showers etc)
● Rain-water harvesting