Orlando outside of Disney World: The Sunshine State’s other side
I’m not a driver. It’s just never appealed to me and I have no interest in cars. Apart from getting behind the wheel for one or two lessons, I’ve remained a perpetual passenger for twenty years. Yet, as my friend drove us along the vast highways out of Orlando International, country music on the radio, it dawned on me: aside from the obvious freedom driving offers, it’s also such a quintessential part of the American experience.
With my knowledge of Orlando limited to it being the birthplace of Disneyfication, I wondered if any of the hallmarks that make a stateside trip so alluring to me lay beyond the spherical shadow of Epcot.
Pulling into the brand new Evermore Orlando Resort and entering the opulent reception of the Conrad, a view of the eight-acre Evermore Bay lagoon hits you with its sheer size and intense blue hue. Evermore itself is a world-first 5-star resort offering holiday homes perfect for families and groups, blending with the adjacent Conrad hotel, both of which circle the man-made lagoon.
The resort says it combines all the comforts of a home with the perks of a hotel and it certainly lives up to this mission statement. The Conrad rooms are beautifully crafted, spacious, and comfortable, but it’s Evermore that is truly exceptional. The residential area of 69 holiday homes, 41 villas, and blocks of 206 flats feels like you’ve stepped into a newly built yet classic American suburb. The largest holiday home sleeps 32 across 19 beds and contains a cinema room and games floor, perfect for keeping the kids busy.
Our 1,900 sqft flat could host 11 people and was a great place to lounge before heading out for day’s exploration. If you’re looking to relax on-resort, you’ll find that daytimes are refreshingly tranquil. The complex is a mere three miles from Disney World, with regular free shuttle bus services provided.
The US boasts some of the most dramatic and diverse landscapes of any country. It’s mind boggling to think that Orlando is built on drained swampland and a 45 minute drive from Evermore takes you to Boggy Creek Airboat Adventures on the stunning Lake Tohopekaliga. Here, an adrenaline filled jaunt across the creek takes you back in time to what the region would have looked like before human intervention and development. Expect to spot nesting alligators and their young.
You can also indulge in some good ol’ fashioned American BBQ at the onsite restaurant, with soft and flakey beef brisket and succulent pulled pork the order of the day.
Heading back into the city, just above Orlando’s Central Business District on N Orange Avenue you’ll find the must-visit Reyes Mezcaleria. This attention grabbing, contemporary Mexican restaurant is headed up by executive chef Wendy Lopez, who oversees a wondrous menu of small and large plates with a focus on communal dining. The pibil jus braised pork chamorro was a true event, the most memorable dish from my time in Orlando. Served with oaxacan corn tortillas, it’s a reminder of what we seriously lack in London.
If you’re looking for a big night out, anywhere around Wall Street Plaza in Downtown is where to go. On a Saturday night, the area is packed with busy bars and groups of partiers. The neighbourhood I found to be more my vibe is Thornton Park, to the east of the beautiful Lake Eola Park. Here you’ll find a more alternative, chilled atmosphere with a definite sense of community. Rainbow flags proudly adorn the trellises of gorgeous period homes, while bars including Falcon provide an inclusive setting. “It’s not quite the main queer scene but it’s definitely a cool small one,” the staff told me while a cat draped itself across my drink-holding arm.
Burtons, Orlando’s oldest bar, is just up the road on E Washington Street , a friendly, bustling sports joint that’s everything you could want from an American tavern. Back in Downtown, an honourable mention must go to Tanquerey’s on S Orange Avenue for the first rate nightly live music.
Coming all the way to Orlando without sampling just a bit of the Disney magic would surely be a missed opportunity. On the West Side of Disney Springs is something truly special. Without having to step foot on a ride or have your picture taken with an oversized mouse, you can be transported back to your childhood through Disney’s collaboration with Cirque du Soleil in the outstanding Drawn to Life. Blending poignant moments from Disney’s cinematic history with a heartfelt story and Cirque’s always-astonishing acrobatics, it’s a spectacle at which even the most ‘grown up’ among us can marvel.
OK, so I went to a Disney show, too. Yet, I found that it is perfectly possible to find the best parts of America still thriving outside Orlando’s theme parks, if you know where to look.
Alternative areas provide a welcome distraction from the more polished city, and a friendly welcome in a classic American bar never fails to put a smile on your face. Round this all off with a healthy dose of the theatrical, and my American experience was complete.
• Conrad Orlando’s rate for a standard nature view guest room is £728 plus taxes and fees. At Evermore Resort, a 2-Bedroom Villa starts at £297 (based on a 3-night stay). Visit the website here.