Greek wine perfectly suits summer. These 5 bottles are the best
Get me to the Greek! My top bottles from a country that’s been a 6,000-year wine secret.
Greek wine has been a local hit since around 4,500BC but it hasn’t always been a mainstay on UK wine lists. Thankfully that seems to have changed, with fresh, saline Assyrtiko and robust red Xinomavro being so de rigueur they can be found on every supermarket shelf.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t cast your net farther than the shelves of Waitrose, though. Anthony Hamilton Russell, of South Africa’s Hamilton Russell wines, once told me that wine is the pursuit of the naturally promiscuous: if a wine lover loves a wine, they don’t just fill their fridge or cellar with that one, but continue to taste, try and buy many other styles, too.
The best Greek wine to buy
So now that you have probably indulged yourself in the best-known grapes of Greece, I am here to tell you about some others you should look out for.
Vidiano is Greece’s rising star, quietly touted as the next big thing by those in the know. Originally from Crete, it sits Assyrtiko-adjacent, with a lovely, creamy freshness and aromas that range from peaches to wild herbs and a dash of sea breeze.
Oenops Wines in Northern Greece makes a superbly expressive Vidiano (Hic! Wine, £22) by sourcing old vine grapes from Crete and using a combination of amphora, stainless steel tanks, large oak barrels and concrete tanks.
It’s mineral fresh with floral, citrus and stone fruit notes. Vidiano makes an attractive blend with Assyrtiko, too, and the Lyrarakis Orange (Majestic, £15) is a great pick for summer with its zesty notes and aromatic complexity.
Malagousia is a grape I fell for during my own travels in mainland Greece. It is one for the fine Viognier fans: highly aromatic, blooming with flowers and herbs but never “blousy”. It was rescued from near extinction to become one of the most delicious Greek wines to explore.
The Navitas Terre de Zeus Malagousia (VINVM, £21.50) is refreshingly juicy with hints of ripe pear, tropical fruit, creamy citrus and a beguiling nuttiness. At Majestic it was selected as part of the Chosen Greek White blend (Majestic, £12.50) to create a crisp, supple, delicately perfumed glass.
I would also draw your attention to Xinomavro as a rosé in the hopes it might tempt some of you away from your Provence bias. The intensity of this grape as a red translates, but in this gentler guise it reveals a crisp, bright, refreshing profile with lovely structure and flavours ranging from wild strawberries and cherry to rose petals and savoury herbs.
The Boutari Dianthos Rosé (Tesco, £10.50) is a good place to start and perfect for lamb grilled on the barbeque.