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Wednesday 01 June 2022 10:44 am  |  Updated:  Wednesday 25 September 2024 4:55 pm

Frenchie has a wine list perfect for long, indulgent lunches

By: Libby Brodie

Wine Consultant - Bacchus & Brodie

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On the cobbles of Covent Garden’s Henrietta Street, Frenchie is a petit, cool oasis of flavour for the bustling West End crowd.

The food menu is minimalist with a choice of two starters, three mains and a host of nibbles. The wine list is extensive with over 100 bottles leaning towards the French and some excellent examples of natural and skin contact wines.

We opted for a Domaine de Chevillard 2018 which was served in satisfyingly large glasses, perfect for the swish and swirl a full-bodied white deserves. The nibbles were an eclectic selection from the most delicate pork rillette I have ever tried – a light, crisp flower-topped tartelette, a sweet and smoky maple syrup and bacon scone served with a mini scoop of clotted cream, a basket of warm parmesan gougères filled with hazelnut cream and topped with grated cheese and stuffed courgette flowers with a moreish flower-topped sauce.

The fois gras starter had been marinaded in Cognac and Madeira for 24 hours, a sliver of pea puree running through it, topped with Chardonnay gel and punctuated by its accompanying fresh strawberries and mint leaves. Its side, a lemon-zested, lavender-honey glazed brioche flavoured with chervil and mint could have been its own dish.

The delicious goats curd Agnolotti topped with stinging nettles and broad beans was a happy balance between feeling springtime fresh whilst actually being a cheesy carb – albeit a very sophisticated one – and the succulent pork had been brined, then BBQ’d and then served with a reduction of the roast juices.

No flash in the pan, this restaurant clearly takes its time to produce dishes with thought and care.

Finishing with a banoffee mousse lifted by its caramelised pecans and gingerbread crumble, Frenchie is a place to embrace your European side and take your time over a long, indulgent lunch.

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