Experience Paris and all that jazz
I DON’T think you ever need an excuse to spend a weekend in Paris but how about a weekend of live jazz in the city’s beautiful Parc Floral? Every weekend until 1 August the park is hosting the Paris Jazz Festival, a series of free outdoor concerts at its stage beneath the trees. Promising emerging new talent from Scandinavia, Germany and Africa, there are only two acts on each day but somehow that adds to its easy charm.
Here’s what I’d suggest: pack light and catch the Eurostar sometime on Saturday morning. No need to rush straight to the jazz – Sundays lend themselves better to the chilled-out vibe – so check into your hotel and head outdoors (a ride in a bateau-mouche along the Seine, perhaps, and check Paris Jazz Club, www.parisjazzclub.net, for an evening gig at one of the many venues around the city).
THE SUNDAY AL FRESCO VIBE
On Sunday morning, take the Métro to Château de Vincennes, then devise a picnic from the backstreets surrounding Parc Floral (this is France, so arrive before everything shuts up at midday). For bread and pastries, there’s Papa Gateau at the end of Rue de Montreuil and a fabulous street market on Rue de Fontenay. For summery tipples to take-away, try Nicolas on Avenue du Château.
Follow the locals into the park, trooping over the grass to the stadium with their hampers, mats and provisions. Find a sunny slope to recline on – we arranged baguette, saucisson, strawberries and croissants on the grass overlooking lily ponds – then let the music do the rest.
Take a seat in the stadium, if you prefer, and stretch your legs by venturing off for an ice cream or wander through patches of flowers and pine trees.
Then, as evening falls, head back towards Gare du Nord and the colourful bars along the canal (the number 46 bus takes you straight there) to continue the al fresco vibe. And if you can’t face returning home in the Sunday night frenzy, stay another night and catch the first train back to work – you’ll be in London by 8 o’clock.
All you have to do is remember to brush the grass stains from your shirt sleeves first.
MAKE A JAZZY WEEKEND OF IT
THE FESTIVAL
The Paris Jazz Festival in Parc Floral de Paris runs until Sunday 1 August. The park is open 9.30am-8pm, entry is €5. Concerts on Saturday and Sunday afternoons are free. Métro Château de Vincennes (Line 1). See www.parisjazzfestival.fr for further details. For evening jazz gigs around the city, see www.parisjazzclub.net
WHERE TO STAY
A hotel with history. Hotel de la Tremoille (www.tremoille.com) was buzzing with jazz in the 1960s – it was a regular rendez-vous spot for Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong. Set in the 8th district, it’s moments from the Champs-Elysées and the banks of the Seine. Until 31 July the hotel is offering an All That Jazz Package which includes accommodation in a standard double room for two with breakfast, a jazz cocktail and CD for €375. The restaurant’s closed at weekends, so for steak frites with second helpings, head to nearby Le Relais de l’Entrecote (15 rue Marbeuf) or visit one of the smart eateries nearby.
GETTING TO PARIS
Eurostar from London St Pancras International takes 2 hours 15 minutes and operates up to 18 daily services to Paris. Return fares from £69. For tickets call 08432 186186 or go to www.eurostar.com