Eat, drink, sleep, repeat: Out on the town with Evolv boss Martin Williams
Last week, my Evolv Collection exec team and I were invited to visit Domaine de Mirabeau, the home of pink pleasures. In a world where wild yeasts are added to wines not only to assist primary fermentation, but to ‘influence’ the flavour profiles (think apricot, raspberry or peach, regardless of grape profile), it was inspiring to sit in the first regeneratively certified vineyard in Provence, where everything is done the traditional way.
Surrounded by flora and fauna – including lamas – I had a wonderful afternoon drinking Mirabeau One Day, a gentle blend of Grenache and Cinsault, which leads the way on both sustainability and quality. One Day, all wine will be made this way.
Another outstanding and super- sustainable rosé is the relatively unknown Chateau Galoupet. Only found in restaurants, we serve it at our Michelin starred Angler from remarkably light, recycled brown bottles. Unconventional but excellent, this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Vermentino, undergoes a partial oak aging, which makes it rather unique and special.
Meanwhile Mirabeau spritz was flowing at the launch party of Chesterton’s Polo in the Park, which we held at Bluebird Chelsea, including a Pommery horsebox in the garden. It was attended by the Argentine ambassador and a plethora of polo royalty, who were inadvertently joined by Michael Vaughan and Liverpool FC legend Thiago Alcantara (the latter fresh from the Dunhill pro-am padel tournament final). They all hit the newly launched Bluebird Members Club to watch the play offs in the Sir Terrence Conran luxury den.
It was a full week attending events and parties in the capital. Aside from the Bluebird floral garden, I was at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show opening night, appropriately kept meters and minutes behind both King Charles and Prince Beckham of Miami.
Orrery
In Marylebone our rooftop terrace at the brilliant Orrery is resplendent in its original Conran design, including a magnificent, curved ceiling and giant windows. One of the gems of the Evolv Collection, dining here is a true treat. Chef patron Igor Tymchyshyn delights with intricate flavours and dishes well worthy of his AA 3-rosette rating.
This visit, hand picked Dorset crab, wasabi and mango awoke the senses, a seafood raviolo in lobster bisque followed, and rump of spring lamb in a delectable light rosemary jus was divine.
A passion fruit mousse with pineapple and basil sorbet completed the meal – all complimented perfectly by an adventurous ‘curve ball’ Santorini Assyriko Domaine Siglas (£130).
DININGS SW3
I first discovered Dinings in Sicily at a Rocco Forte resort pop up. Safely back in the shadow of Harrods, I savored a blood orange martini that took me back to the Trinacria (as the Greeks call the triangular island). After that we devoured a Riesling Clos Saint Hune Trimbach 2018 (£500) – liquid nectar and the perfect accompaniment for the abundance of omakase delights which followed.
There were too many dishes to mention (and not enough complimentary adjectives) but highlights included baskets of sashimi bombs, each with a precise dressing and garnish that both delicately lifted the dish and successfully tantilised the taste buds. Carpaccio of seabass, with truffle salsa, resembled mini mounds of haggis and delighted when I discovered it was truffle not tripe as it hit the taste buds. An A5 Wagyu bao was medal winning, as was a yellow tail hand roll. I cannot recommend this experience highly enough: excellent service and precise and perfect food; an absolute delight.
Back on Kings Road, my wife and I visited Rabbit, home of the Gladwin family who own the nearby The Pigs Ear pub and Nutbourne vineyards in Sussex. It’s run by three brothers who I have known since they set up the restaurant: Oli a brilliant chef, Gregory a conscientious farmer and Richard the restaurateur. Rabbit, which has been around for 15 years, is my favourite Gladwin restaurant, created with the spirit, hope, tears and joy that inevitably comes when bravely entering entrepreneurship.
Glowing from the complimentary Pommery champagne enjoyed at the flower show, we cut to the chase with signature Marmite eclairs to start, which were as good as they were a decade ago: no love-it or hate-it here, just simple adoration. Next up were dishes of barbequed beetroot with feta, fennel and blackened asparagus with a dip too magical to disclose.
Sticking with (an all too rare) vegetarian theme, we had courgettes for mains, smothered in pickles, crispy onions and a harissa, just the right side of a parma violet in flavour. An epic meal, fit for a king, or indeed a golden prince.
